Wild Mushrooms: A Chance for Marginalised Mountain Regions in Serbia

Milica Fotirić Akšić (University of Belgrade, Faculty of Agriculture)

In Serbia, particularly in rural and mountainous regions, mushroom collection has emerged as a crucial economic activity. Nutrient-dense mushrooms, packed with proteins, vitamins, and minerals, are harvested both for personal consumption and commercial sales. This activity bolsters local economies, preserves traditional knowledge, and enhances community bonds, proving to be a valuable pursuit for many rural residents.

Fungi are one of the largest specific groups of living organisms that have become an integral part of terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems. In terrestrial and freshwater ecosystems, fungi are an important part of ecosystems because they have ability to decompose organic matter, contributing to key elemental cycles by releasing CO2 into the atmosphere and inorganic nitrogen and phosphorous into the soil (Grossart et al., 2019). They also form symbiotic relationships and regulate ecological balance, protecting biodiversity and ensuring the health and resilience of ecosystems (Bahram and Netherway, 2022). Mycelium, which is the root structure of mushrooms, are also used to replace unsustainable materials, such as plastic, synthetic and animal-based products (Balaeș et al., 2023).

Modern scientists know of a number of fungi species, but an exact amount cannot be found in any scientific source. In academic literature, the number of fungal species varies between 100,000 and 1.5 million (Hawksworth and Lücking, 2017). Each species is divided into classes and orders, and has thousands of generic names and synonyms. This is why experienced mushroom pickers claim that it is just as easy to get lost in the world of mushrooms than it is in the forest.

Edible mushrooms are those that are approved for consumption and pose no danger to human health. They are rich in protein, amino acids, and specific fungal sugars – mycose and glycogen. Mushrooms are also a rich source of potassium, phosphorus, sulfur, magnesium, sodium, calcium, chlorine, vitamins A, C, PP, D and the entire group of B vitamins, as well as enzymes, which are particularly important because they improve food absorption, but are low in calories (Kalač, 2013). 6% of edible mushrooms possess medicinal properties, which can help prevent diseases and boost immune systems (Venturella et al., 2021).

There are more than 150 species of edible mushrooms in Serbia, 15 of which are permitted for organised collection in the wild (see table below). Mushroom collecting in Serbia is one of the most widespread activities to discover local sources for food, but is also hobby that combines spending time in nature with adding innovative foods to individual diets. Serbia’s most common traditional foods prepared with mushrooms are mushroom pie, soup, goulash, fried or grilled mushrooms, stuffed mushrooms, mushroom risotto, or even fresh mushrooms used in salads (Živković et al., 2021).

A Rise in Serbian Mushroom Harvesting

Some mushrooms are primarily harvested for their high gastronomic value. In Serbia, fungi are commonly used as components of traditional foods and recipes, and mostly consumed cooked or fried, especially during fasting periods when they are consumed as a substitute for meat (Živković et al., 2021). These include mushrooms of the genus Agaricus spp. (Agaricus campestris – field mushroom, Agaricus macrospores – Macro Mushroom), the wild Pleurotus ostreatus (Jacq. ex Fr.) Kummer – Oyster mushroom, Bovista nigrescens – Brown puffball and Bovista plumbea – Tumbling puffball, Morshella esculanta – Common morel, Morel, Yellow morel, True morel, Sponge morel), Leatiporus sulfureus – Chicken of the woods, Macrolepiota procera – Parasol mushroom, and Amanita cesarea – Caesar’s mushroom. The best-known medicinal mushrooms are Trametes versicolor – Turkey tail and Ganoderma lucidum – Reishi.

The economic collapse of Serbia and the extreme poverty of its inhabitants in the 1990s prompted many to seek their income in collecting interesting mushroom species for commercial enterprises (Mandić et al., 2018). At this time, social events called “Mushroom Days” cropped up throughout the country with the aim of spreading knowledge of edible mushrooms and informing the public and potential gatherers. As a result, more people began to collect mushrooms for personal use or for sale, while the collection of wild mushrooms in Serbia became an important business and the number of mushroom trading companies increased (Mandić et al., 2018). Nowadays, mushrooms are usually collected by people who enjoy eating them, such as hobbyists and residents of rural areas.

Collecting and Exporting Wild Mushrooms in Serbia

The permit for collecting and selling mushrooms harvested in the wild, including truffles, is issued by the Serbian Ministry of Environmental Protection based on an expert opinion from the Serbian Institute for Nature Protection. To issue this permit, the Ministry conducts a yearly public competition and regulates the species and quantities that may be collected that year. At the end of the year, the Serbian Institute for Nature Protection submits to the Ministry the quantities that may be collected in the following year and publishes them together with the price list of protected species on the website of the Ministry of Environmental Protection and in the Official Gazette of the RS. There are twenty buyers in Serbia and just as many processors who export mushrooms to Germany, France, Italy, and Switzerland.

According to the data sent to MARGISTAR by the Serbian Chamber of Commerce, the total export of mushrooms and truffles from Serbia in 2022 was worth about €25 million, the largest percentage of which – €10 million for 282 tons of mushrooms – was attributed to the sale of dried mushrooms to Italy, Switzerland, France, Germany, the UK, the USA and the UAE. Of the quantities collected and exported, more than 80% of wild mushrooms were bolete mushrooms and chantarelles. Cantharellus cibarius, or gold chanterelles, are among the most frequently consumed forest mushrooms in Europe due to their apricot scent and enticing yellow or orange colour (Kała et al., 2020).

The Black Summer Truffle was similarly popular and, based on the permits issued, over 4.5 tons (4,578 kilograms) were collected last year.

As it stands, mushroom gathering poses an important potential source of income for small Serbian businesses and can support the development of communities in marginalised areas. Notably, it can also create developmental opportunities for women. Wild mushroom harvesting can serve as a valuable economic and empowerment activity for women and other marginalised groups that face specific challenges in mountainous areas. By engaging in this sustainable practice, inhabitants can generate additional income, which enhances their financial independence and supports their households. Additionally, it can promote community cohesion and provide opportunities for women to network, share experiences, and build supportive relationships, further strengthening their role within their communities.